World Tourism Day is observed every year on September 27th. Tourists create itineraries based on a wide range of interests, such as architecture, gastronomy, or natural beauty, which are the most common choices. However, some travelers seek out hints of mystery and places with haunting histories. In a city as rich in stories as São Paulo, it's not hard to discover locations with a past marked by unsettling events, which have now been repurposed into cultural attractions, enriching the tapestry of the city's society.
In São Paulo, historic buildings, centuries-old mansions, and even parks serve as repositories of memories, recounting tales of state violence, murders, and even hauntings. While they stand as symbols of the past, today they play a vital role as focal points for reflection. They encourage us to reflect on the lessons from history that we should strive not to repeat in the future and their ongoing impact on the present. Next, we present a small itinerary with seven places in São Paulo that have been - or will be - remodeled to add new uses for the population.
Capela dos Aflitos / Liberdade
Liberdade is a neighborhood known for its predominantly Asian presence, which is evident in its businesses, restaurants, and public amenities. What may not be widely known is the neighborhood's historical association with the black community. This story is effectively conveyed in the comic 'Indivisível.' In its main square, located near the subway exit and often hosting fairs and festivities, once stood the gallows of São Paulo. Not far from this spot is the Capela dos Aflitos, situated in the city's first public cemetery, known as the Cemitério dos Aflitos. This cemetery was the resting place for individuals marginalized in society, including blacks, indigenous people, and prostitutes. Luna D'Alama notes that within this cemetery, there's the burial site of black corporal Francisco José das Chagas (-1821), who served in the First Battalion of Santos. He had risen against a Portuguese vessel due to five years of unpaid wages. Chaguinhas, as he was known, and a fellow soldier were sentenced to death for their actions. According to documented history, the rope intended for his hanging broke three times, leading the crowd to shout 'Freedom!'—hence the neighborhood's name. However, there was no clemency, and he ultimately met his end through a brutal beating. Chaguinhas became a martyr, a local saint, and a source of cemetery miracles, with legends of apparitions and candles lit in his memory that wouldn't be extinguished by rain or wind. Furthermore, the Union of Friends of Capela dos Aflitos (Unamca) intends to restore this historical space, with construction set to commence later this year and reopening expected in 2025.
Casa de Dona Yayá
It may be difficult to imagine now, but Bixiga was once a neighborhood with isolated farms in its surroundings. In the 1920s, a mansion in what is now the heart of this neighborhood was home to Sebastiana de Mello Freire (1887-1961), known as Dona Yayá. She was the sole heiress of one of the wealthiest families of her time, but she was isolated in this mansion due to psychiatric disorders. Consequently, the late 19th-century building was adapted for her treatment. Following her passing, numerous accounts and legends emerged about apparitions of past residents in the vicinity. Despite these stories, the property was designated as a historical heritage site. Since 2004, it has functioned as the Cultural Preservation Center of the University of São Paulo. This center offers free cultural activities that delve into the history of the space, focusing on the anti-asylum movement and the preservation of its rich historical memory.
Castelinho da Rua Apa
According to Luna D’Alama, the history of Castelinho da Rua Apa dates back to the early 20th century when French architects were commissioned to replicate a medieval castle in Santa Cecília. This castle-like space served as the residence of the Guimarães Reis family. In May 1937, two months after the family patriarch's death, his wife Maria Cândida and his sons Álvaro and Armando were discovered dead, side by side. There is a possibility that the first family member, Álvaro, may have murdered his relatives before taking his own life. However, his case is peculiar as there were two bullets in his head, an uncommon occurrence in suicide cases. Consequently, the crime remains unsolved. The property was abandoned for decades and occupied by homeless individuals. During this period, the space gained a reputation for being haunted, with accounts of paranormal phenomena, apparitions, and poltergeist manifestations such as doors slamming without wind, taps turning on by themselves, physical attacks, and people being pushed down the stairs. In 2004, the property was designated as a historic site. Later, between 2015 and 2017, it underwent restoration and was transformed into the headquarters of the Clube de Mães do Brasil, an NGO dedicated to serving socially vulnerable populations.
Martinelli Building
The Martinelli Building, Latin America's first skyscraper, was inaugurated in 1929. Oswald de Andrade nicknamed it the "wedding cake." Over the last century, it played host to numerous programs and served as a significant gathering place for the intellectual elite. However, its decline commenced in the 1950s when it became associated with crime, drug trafficking, prostitution, and clandestine abortion clinics. In 1975, the City Hall expropriated and restored the property, which had accumulated garbage and human skeletons in the elevator shaft up to at least the seventh floor. Urban legends about the Martinelli Building are shared by guides, security guards, and elevator operators who report unusual elevator movements, electrical power fluctuations, slamming doors, and even sightings of a "ghostly blonde" in the corridors, as noted by D'Alama. Currently, the building accommodates municipal offices, but it is slated for transformation as a result of the concession granted by São Paulo City Hall in June of this year. It involves a 15-year management by a company with a planned investment of R$71 million. This investment will fund various renovations, including the new Martinelli Observatory on the 25th floor. The observatory will feature a museum, a cinema, a store, restaurants, observation spaces, art exhibitions, and event spaces. These renovations are expected to be finished next year. Furthermore, the plan includes making accessibility adaptations.
Estação Pinacoteca
The São Paulo State Pinacoteca is currently spread across multiple buildings in the Luz region of São Paulo. One of these is Pina Estação, located within the former Central Warehouse of the Sorocabana Railway. This substantial structure, constructed in 1914 by Ramos de Azevedo, also served as the headquarters of the Department of Political and Social Order from 1942 to 1983. During this time, students and political activists endured torture and violence under the rule of the Military Dictatorship. In 2004, São Paulo architect Haron Cohen oversaw the renovation of this building. It presently accommodates a section of the Pinacoteca's temporary exhibitions and offices program, along with the São Paulo Resistance Memorial. This memorial serves as a cultural institution dedicated to human rights, focusing on preserving and presenting the memories of political resistance and repression in republican Brazil.
Ipiranga Museum
The Ipiranga Museum boasts an extensive collection of artifacts from Brazil's historical elite and the royal court of past centuries. It also holds a share of legends and ghostly tales. One intriguing story revolves around the statue of Dom Pedro I, with some claiming it moves during the night. Additionally, at the opposite end of the park, there's a crypt concealed within the Independence Monument, constructed in 1952 to house the remains of D. Pedro I and his two wives, D. Maria Leopoldina, and D. Amélia. While this may be the less spine-chilling aspect of this guide, a visit is well worth it. Whether you're interested in delving into the country's history or admiring the architectural marvel of the modernization and restoration of the museum, it offers an enriching experience. According to the architects, H+F Arquitetos, their overarching objective in the renovation was not to impose a new identity but to unveil the existing aspects through thoughtful spatial arrangements and discreet interventions. The focus was not on how the new elements look but on how effectively they enhance the museum's existing qualities and enrich its character.
Parque da Juventude
Today, Parque da Juventude is a vibrant place with spacious areas adorned by beautiful landscaping, sports courts, and cultural buildings that are widely used by the public. It's hard to believe that this is the same location where Carandiru, a notorious penitentiary complex, once stood. The location witnessed numerous acts of violence, with the most devastating being the Carandiru Massacre, in which the Military Police killed 111 inmates. After several major uprisings, the decision was made to demolish the prison, and the Government of the State of São Paulo organized a public competition for the architectural design and planning of Parque da Juventude. Among the proposals, the winning project was created by landscape architect Rosa Kliass in collaboration with the architectural firm aflalo/gasperini. The project was executed in three stages, with the final stage completed in 2007. This last phase included the development of sports facilities, communal spaces for social activities and relaxation, as well as institutional buildings like a library and a school.
